Thursday, 19 March 2015

Nottingham Forest 2 - 0 Rotherham United

Thirty five minutes into what was, up to that point, a somewhat turgid encounter, my mind started to wander from the uninspiring fare in front of me to my Half Time Tweet. How would I sum up the match so far? I'd just about settled on "Well, that was 45 minutes (plus 2 minutes stoppage time) of my life I'll never get back," when two great goals in as many minutes had consigned the tweet to remain forever in drafts, and Rotherham United to defeat. How quickly things can change!

One thing that didn't change was Nottingham Forest's starting lineup however. Matt Fryatt's troublesome Achilles wasn't risked, so Dexter Blackstock remained the lone striker ahead of the usual five-man midfield. Eric Lichaj and Michael Mancienne continued as round pegs, er, full backs and, on the bench, new signing Modou Barrow took Lars Veldwijk's substitute berth. Rotherham included ex-Reds Jack Hunt and Matt Derbyshire, the latter of whom was partnered in attack by the lumpen former Derby goal-machine....., hmm, no. Striker? Barely. Former Derby player Conor Sammon. 

The opening exchanges were as pedestrian as a smart, inner-city square surrounded by bars and restaurants. Rotherham kept possession well without testing Karl Darlow, though they did cause some bother down their right flank where Hunt and Sammon were often 2-on-1 against Lichaj, due to Michail Antonio deciding that tracking back was something other people did. Going the other way though, Antonio sent an early shot wide and produced a typically muscular run which ended in him crumpling in a heap in the penalty area. As this was at the other end of the pitch from me I couldn't tell either way, but the Lower Bridgford seemed miffed that a spot kick hadn't been awarded. Another Antonio rampage was halted, this time outside the area, and Henri Lansbury sent the resultant free kick over the bar. It looked as though the first half would end frustratingly goalless, until the two moments that changed and decided the contest. 

I have to admit, I missed seeing the first goal live as I was mid-Twitter rant about the ineptitude of the unlikely-looking referee. Having seen the replays though, I can assure you that Antonio lofted a ball down the left which bounced nicely into Blackstock's path. The rejuvenated striker in turn lobbed a shot over Miller's keeper Adam Collin, whose despairing dive could only tip the ball onto the underside of the crossbar and in. 

One became two barely a minute later when Antonio picked up the ball in his own half, from about the same position where he'd set up Blackstock's goal. This time though he just got his head down and ran, brushing aside three (admittedly unconvincing) challenges and thumping a low drive past the helpless Collin from just outside the box. Had this been a Saturday match it would've been another sure-fire winner of Sky Sports' Goal of the Day, but instead it just made the score 2-0 and Dougie Freedman's half time team talk a far more pleasant experience. 

The second half followed a similar theme to the first, with spells of largely ineffectual Rotherham possession punctuated by somewhat more dangerous looking Forest attacks. The visitors did come closer to scoring than in the first 45 minutes though, with Lee Frecklington hitting the post and Sammon forcing Darlow into a good save. 

At the other end, Forest just couldn't quite extend their lead. Another couple of Antonio runs ended respectively in a blocked shot and a dangerous cross which was whipped off the toes of Chris Burke. I say "runs" but that barely does them justice. You know when Super Mario eats the flower thing that makes him invincible and then just squashes anything in his path? That's the kind of run. 

Anyway, Gary Gardner curled an effort just wide and a long period of passing saw Barrow - who looked quick and lively on his debut - find Burke with a decent cross, only for the Scotsman's shot to be deflected wide. Despite the blond, flowing-locked promptings of Ben Pringle, Rotherham never looked like scoring and, just before full time, Tyler Walker - son of Forest legend Des - made his Reds bow. He only got two touches, but they were good ones, chesting down a high ball before laying it off to a teammate. Full time whistle. Job done. Three more points. 

Forest weren't at their best but did enough to just about keep pace with the top six. The defence was solid enough and Gardner was again impressive in midfield. What a loss he'll be when he presumably returns to Villa Park next season. Blackstock again ran his socks off and was rewarded and, as for Antonio, well...

Imagine a slightly stronger but a bit more clumsy version of Stan Collymore who plays wide midfield and you'll begin to get the picture of what he's like. At times he can look dreadful, conceding possession easily before standing in disgust at his own profligacy. But at other times, as with his goal, he's totally unplayable. His pace and strength must make him a nightmare to defend against. Indeed there's a great picture doing the rounds of him hunched over the ball, surrounded by five Rotherham defenders. Strength of numbers is sometimes the only way to stop him. 

So, next up are the three matches which will probably shape the rest of our season. Norwich may be too far ahead to catch (though a win would put us only seven points behind them with as many matches to play), and a draw at Carrow Road would be a fine result. Then, over Easter, we host Wolves and visit Brentford. The outcomes of these matches could see us firmly in the playoff mix, or wondering why we even thought about reaching them at all. As Dougie said in his post-match interview, there's often one team that comes from nowhere to snatch a top six place. All we can do is keep on winning, and you never know, it just might be us. 

Tuesday, 10 March 2015

How We're Playing, We Don't Need Rhodes

When I logged onto Twitter this morning and checked the #NFFC hashtag, I was greeted by the unlikely sight of a report from The Sun claiming that Nottingham Forest were readying a club-record £8m bid for Blackburn Rovers striker Jordan Rhodes. As Forest are currently under a well-publicised transfer embargo, it was easy to dismiss this report as nonsense; agent-talk to drum up interest in Blackburn’s prize asset. However, the report openly mentioned Forest’s embargo and it was penned by the reasonably well-respected Alan Nixon (who broke the Lascelles and Darlow to Newcastle story in the summer). So, could there be any truth in it? And if there was, would it be a good thing?

Unlikely as it seems, I suppose there is some small chance of this deal happening. Rovers, like Forest, are also currently under a transfer embargo. With the current form of Rudy Gestede, Rhodes’ importance to the Lancashire club is not as great as it was, despite his exceptional goal-scoring record. It’s not beyond the realms of possibility that – with little left to play for this season – they could be persuaded to loan him out and get at least some part of his wages off their bill. By the terms of Forest’s embargo however, the most they could contribute to Rhodes’ wages would be £10k per week. With Derby and Norwich also allegedly keen on securing his services, surely both he and Rovers would be better off moving to one of those clubs, no?

Forest may have offered a greater amount for a permanent signing fee than the other interested clubs, but to agree to that would take a massive amount of faith on Rovers’ part, as it hinges totally on Forest being in the Premier League – which is a remote chance at best. No promotion, no permanent deal. Would Rovers really sign up to that?

And if they did, and by some miracle this deal happened, what would it mean for the rest of Forest’s season? In Rhodes, Forest would be acquiring a striker with a great goalscoring record, there’s no doubt about that. But the team are playing really well at the moment with the resources they already have. Dougie Freedman’s 4-5-1/4-3-3 is working brilliantly, with both Dexter Blackstock and Matt Fryatt contributing a lot, if not necessarily in terms of goals, then certainly in effort, defending from the front and bringing the midfield into play. How would Rhodes change that dynamic?

The more worrying part for me would be the increased expectation that Rhodes’ arrival would bring. Sure, Forest still have a chance of reaching the playoffs but, with nine points to make up in only ten matches, it’s a slim one. Securing the services of Rhodes might make Fawaz al Hasawi think he’s bought a guaranteed ticket to the end-of-season carnival, which would definitely not be the case. If we did sign Rhodes, and failed to make the playoffs, it’s not hard to imagine a scenario in which Fawaz would sack Freedman for his ‘failure.’ And that would be bad. We’d be back to square one (again) and would have lost a manager who’s had a fantastic impact in his brief time here.

Would I like to see a striker of Jordan Rhodes’ quality in the Garibaldi? Of course I would. But in this case I won’t be too disappointed if the paper-talk turns out to be just that.

Unless he goes to Derby.

Saturday, 7 March 2015

Nottingham Forest 2 - 1 Middlesbrough

I believe it was Arnold Palmer who is reported to have said "The more I practice, the luckier I get." It would be rather unfair - and totally inaccurate - to label the impact that Dougie Freedman has had since he took over as Nottingham Forest manager as luck. However, things seem to have fallen into place for Freedman more than they did for Stuart Pearce. Opposition shots are missing rather than flying in, passes are going astray, defenders are slipping, that kind of thing. It's hard to imagine Pearce's Forest pulling off the gritty rearguard actions that Freedman's Reds managed against Bournemouth and Middlesbrough, but these two very similar victories were secured by solid resolve, hard work and taking chances. Certainly not luck.

Following Freedman's first defeat as Forest manager he was forced into more changes than he's had to make in any of his matches so far. Both Matt Fryatt and Danny Fox suffered minor knocks; so Dexter Blackstock started up front and Eric Lichaj returned to the familiarly unfamiliar left back berth. Kelvin Wilson returned in place of Danny Collins, while Michael Mancienne lined up in midfield, replacing Ben Osborn. One suspects that Collins and Osborn were feeling the pace after the recent run of matches, rather than anything more sinister.

There was a distinctly Forest flavour to the visitors' team too, as Patrick Bamford and goalkeeper Dimitrios Konstantopoulos made their City Ground returns. Boro also fielded Grant Leadbitter, Albert Adomah and George Friend, all of whom had been linked with moves to Forest at one time or another,

The opening exchanges were somewhat scrappy, possibly due to the strong wind which was blasting across the ground. Michail Antonio's deflected shot forced Dimi (I'm not typing Konstantopoulos out every time I mention him) into a good save. Gradually though, Boro started to turn the screw, finding space down the left and keeping Lichaj very busy. One of these forays won them a corner, which was taken short (we never learn) and found Leadbitter. His attempted cross looped over Karl Darlow, hit the far post, rebounded off Mancienne and into the net to give the Teesside team the lead. After having lost against Charlton, this looked like a big test for Forest.

It was a test which the players were equal to. Blackstock flashed a header wide from a Gary Gardner cross, before Gardner himself levelled things up with a wonderful curling shot from outside the penalty area. Boro were forced to replace the dangerous Ryan Fredericks due to injury - which made Lichaj's afternoon a lot easier - and the first half ended with honours even.

The second half started even more scrappily than the first, scrappier than a scrap metal merchant impersonating Scrappy Doo in fact. Simple passes were misplaced, longer ones were misjudged and neither side could keep possession. Antonio in particular was having one of those afternoons, when balls which usually stuck to him ended up bouncing off at angles as yet undiscovered by science.

But then, as he has done so often this season, he clicked. A rampaging run forced Tomas Kalas to concede a corner, though much of the Trent End thought it should've been a penalty; then, barely minutes later, another gallop down the left saw Antonio find Blackstock in the box. The ball seemed to be stuck under the striker's feet but he somehow dug out a shot with enough power to find the top corner and give Forest the lead. It was a really good finish which topped off his 150th appearance in the Garibaldi very nicely indeed.

From then on in, the Reds sat deep and Boro dominated possession. The rest of the second half went something like: pass pass shot blocked pass cross cleared pass shot blocked cross cleared shot hit the post goal kick. For all the visitors' efforts though, I can only remember Darlow making one real save. Forest didn't offer much more themselves but in the end they didn't need to, and the Charlton defeat was well and truly forgotten as another hard-won victory was secured.

I won't lie, the second half was difficult to watch at times as Forest defended very deep and let Boro dictate the play, but it's hard to question Freedman's tactics as the visitors couldn't find a way through, with their only goal coming courtesy of a fluke. It would be easy to say that better teams might have punished Forest, but there aren't many better teams in the division; and the one team who probably are better - Bournemouth - suffered the same fate.

The top of the Championship is ridiculously close, with one point separating the top five teams and five points separating the top seven. Of Forest's remaining ten matches, five of them are against teams currently above us. Our fate may not be in our own hands, but results like this one ensures there's enough to play for to keep things interesting. It always is with us. It always is.



Thursday, 26 February 2015

Nottingham Forest 2 - 1 AFC Bournemouth

As I was walking to the City Ground to watch Nottingham Forest's match against AFC Bournemouth, the strangest thing happened. A black cat walked past me, then, a moment later, so did another. Was it the same cat? Possibly, I don't know. Then, seemingly from nowhere two figures appeared, clad from head to toe in clothes of obsidian hue. A man there was, and a woman. They spoke to me: "Deja vu," the man proclaimed. "It's a glitch in the Matrix." "It happens when they change something," added the woman. And with that they were gone, bounding effortlessly over a nearby house. After the match, after Forest had held out for a thrilling but frankly unlikely 2-1 victory, having come back from a goal behind, another surge of deja vu washed over me, because a few months earlier they'd done exactly the same thing. Then I realised what had changed. The manager.

The match against Bournemouth presented Dougie Freedman with his sternest test as Forest manager to date, as it previously had for Stuart Pearce. Forest conceded first against a confident team which dominated possession, as they had before; but then got a foothold in the match, clawed their way in front and hung on for dear life. The parallels were there. Even more so when you compare the records for both managers' first five matches in charge: four wins and a draw. Hopefully after match ten the similarities will end though, and our form won't dive off a cliff like an over-enthusiastic lemming.

Unsurprisingly, Freedman picked the same XI - and indeed substitutes - that put his former club Bolton to the sword last time out. A welcome luxury this season. The visitors influential midfielder Matt Ritchie was declared fit to play, but striker Yann Kermogant missed out, and ex-Reds Lee Camp and Elliot Ward could only make the bench.

As in the previous match, there was to be no gentle start to the game. This time however it was the visitors who tore into Forest before the pea in referee Nigel Miller's whistle had finished vibrating from him blowing to start proceedings. An early corner was played short and a Simon Francis header forced Karl Darlow to tip over. The resultant corner was played short again, laid off to Andrew Surman, and curled wonderfully past Darlow's despairing grasp. Now we'd see what Dougie's men were made of.

If the next ten minutes were anything to go by, the answer was jelly. Bournemouth attacked Forest with gusto, speed and variety. Spells of short-passing possession punctuated by raking crossfield passes and lightning fast set pieces. The diminutive but dastardly Ritchie, and his clone on the other flank Ryan Fraser, were particularly threatening. Corners were won and shots blocked. Callum Wilson - whose pace was matched only by his annoyingness - blocked a Darlow clearance and fired into the side netting.

The knockout punch of a second goal didn't come though and gradually Forest dragged themselves off the ropes and started fighting back. Michail Antonio scuffed a decent chance wide before the Reds won a succession of corners. The last of these found its way to Jamaal Lascelles who drove home the equaliser from just inside the area. Twenty minutes in and we were level pegging.

The remainder of the first half was more even. Bournemouth continued to look dangerous and Eric Lichaj had his hands full; firstly being nutmegged by the slippery Fraser and seemingly bringing him down (though nothing was given), then sending Adam Smith into orbit and becoming the first Forest player to be booked since Freedman took over. Forest had chances too though, with a flowing move ending in Henri Lansbury forcing a save from Cherries' keeper Artur Boruc, and Antonio stinging Boruc's palms with a rasping drive.

Just before half time Antonio was hauled down by Francis to win a free kick just outside the area. As the visitors lined up their wall, I remarked to those sitting nearby that there was a nice gap which was only partially blocked by one of their pocket-sized wingers. Up stepped Lansbury to obligingly make me look like a football oracle by curling a precise shot into said gap to give Forest the lead. A perfect finish to a fantastic half of football.

The second half lacked the intensity of the first but still produced excitement. Lascelles nearly extended Forest's lead, but his header from another Ben Osborn corner was cleared off the line. Lansbury twice went close to repeating his free kick heroics and an Osborn stinger was smartly held by Boruc. Bournemouth once again enjoyed the lion's share of possession (though I'm not sure why a lion would want a football), but didn't truly test Darlow, apart from making him kick his clearances past Wilson who insisted on trying to block each one. Wilson further endeared himself to the home fans by tumbling in the area but no penalty was given.

Michael Mancienne was eased back into the action in place of Chris Burke, and Matt Fryatt and Lars Veldwijk replaced Dexter Blackstock and Antonio, both of whom had run themselves insensible. The Dutchman saw a late shot blocked as Bournemouth pressed forward and left spaces behind. There was to be no further scoring however as Forest held out for a victory which had looked unbelievable when they'd fallen behind.

This was every bit as satisfying as the rout of Bolton, albeit for different reasons. Despite Bournemouth's possession - and they certainly did dominate it - the Reds' back line stayed disciplined and solid. Lichaj eventually saw off Fraser who was substituted in the second half. The midfield and Blackstock were chasing the ball for most of the match but they stuck with it, and eventually the Cherries' passing got more and more ragged as control gave way to desperation.

The gap to the top six still looks too large to be bridged, but that the playoffs are even being discussed at all is testament to the impact that Dougie Freedman has had since being appointed. History says that one team often makes a late dash into the end-of-season shenanigans. Even if we can't claim an unlikely playoff place, the last few performances have been a pleasure to watch. Let's hope there's more to come.






Saturday, 21 February 2015

Nottingham Forest 4 - 1 Bolton Wanderers

"Never a dull moment" is a sentence which has been used to describe events at Nottingham Forest all-too-frequently over the last few months. This time, for once, it summed up events on the pitch, and if anything, didn't do them justice.

Five goals, two penalties, two serious injuries resulting in a total of sixteen minutes of stoppage time, one red card (which could have been three), an ex-England striker playing at centre half and, happily for Reds fans, three points. I think that's the lot.

Following the ridiculous 4-4 draw away at Blackpool, Dougie Freedman was forced into shuffling his Forest pack for the visit of his former club Bolton Wanderers, due to the injury suffered by Jack Hobbs. Presumably he felt the game had come too soon for Michael Mancienne and Kelvin Wilson, as it was Jamaal Lascelles who lined up alongside Danny Collins in the centre of defence, with the other two starting on the substitutes' bench. Dexter Blackstock got the nod up-front ahead of Matt Fryatt and the rest of the team was as you were. The visitors, alas, left their veteran striking partnership of Emile Heskey and Eider Gudjohnsen on their bench, with the dangerous Adam Le Fondre and promising Zach Clough spearheading their attack.

Normally I'd start these reviews with "both teams passed it around nicely without looking dangerous," but that wasn't the case this time as Forest fairly flew out of the blocks. Two minutes had elapsed when Henri Lansbury forced a save from Bolton keeper Andy Lonergan with a free kick. Five minutes later Lansbury knocked a decent chance over the bar, and two minutes after that Forest were ahead. Lansbury's diagonal ball sought out Chris Burke and, when the Trotters left back slipped, Burke was clean through. Lonergan blocked his first attempt but the rebound popped up nicely for the reinvigorated Scotsman to volley home.

Almost straight from the restart Burke saw another shot blocked and Lascelles headed wide from the resultant corner. Then we were lucky enough to witness one of the best individual goals I've ever seen at the City Ground. Michail Antonio picked the ball up in midfield, muscled his way past about four Bolton defenders and smashed his shot past the helpless Lonergan to double Forest's lead.

For the next ten minutes or so, Antonio was totally unplayable. Two rampaging runs and crosses created chances for Burke (blocked) and Lansbury (tipped wide). Antonio himself headed over from the second corner and it seemed just a matter of time before Forest netted again. It wasn't to be though - at least not yet.

A nasty looking injury to Wanderers' defender Tim Ream saw a lengthy stoppage and Ream being replaced. The Reds switched off a little and Bolton gained in confidence. A goalmouth scramble was eventually cleared before, deep into stoppage time, Danny Fox upended Zach Clough in the penalty area. No arguments from where I was sitting and Adam Le Fondre calmly rolled the spot kick past Karl Darlow to get Bolton back into the match. A 2-1 half time lead for Forest was scant reward  for their excellent play and one wondered how they'd react to conceding just before the break.

One needn't have worried though. The second half had scarcely begun before Bolton's Matt Mills had received his second yellow card for a foul on the rampant Antonio. The visitors' subsequent central defensive crisis treated us to the unlikely spectacle of Emile Heskey - a half-time substitute - lining up in the heart of their defence. Not, I imagine, what he expected when he took the field.

Ten minutes later and the match was effectively over as a contest. A woefully short back header, possibly by Heskey, was intercepted by Blackstock who appeared to be flattened by Lonergan as he skipped round him. The referee pointed to the penalty spot but the predictable - and probably justified - howls for a red card were halted when it became apparent that Lonergan was seriously hurt. Eventually he was stretched off - sans red card - and replaced by Ben Amos. His first task was to pick Lansbury's penalty out of the net after the Forest man had thumped it past him.

Moments afterwards it was four for Forest as Heskey went all WWE on Blackstock just outside the penalty area. The ball ran free for Burke to sweep home his second and cap an excellent display. Maybe he understands Dougie's Scottish brogue better than Stuart Pearce's Cockney promptings; but whatever the reason Burke has looked a different player since Freedman took the reins.

The bedlam calmed down pretty much after that. Heskey's every touch was cheered and indeed, as Lonergan was receiving his treatment, the Forest fans implored him to go in nets. Le Fondre was lucky to escape with just a yellow card after a horrendous foul on Gary Gardner and Lars Veldwijk reappeared but alas couldn't break his Forest duck. Some one hundred and six minutes after the match kicked off, it ended as a comfortable victory for the Reds.

Bolton were probably the stiffest opposition Forest had faced since Freedman arrived as manager so the manner in which they were brushed aside is very encouraging. It was particularly satisfying to have made such a good start and to have forced our opponents to chase the game early on, rather than the other way round. As I mentioned earlier, Chris Burke seems a different player at the moment and Henry Lansbury's return to form has also proved very welcome. For a manager who is supposed to play dour football, a return of fourteen goals in four games is impressive to say the least.

Sterner tests await of course, starting on Wednesday night with the visit of Bournemouth. A run at the playoffs might be asking a bit much but if this current run of form continues we'll enjoy a good finish to the season. And hopefully the on-the-field action can continue to be the focus. As it should be.









Thursday, 12 February 2015

Nottingham Forest 3 - 0 Wigan Athletic

Those thoroughly decent chaps at Seat Pitch are hosting this match review, so get yourself over there and check it out.

It's here. No, not there, here

Sunday, 8 February 2015

Wonderful Windows

It was the marshmallows. They were what did it. They looked so innocent and enticing; pastel-coloured cubes of sweetness sitting in their jar. The lightness of the desserts had revived me after I was flagging at the end of the main course. But the marshmallows - and I only had two of them - they made me feel as if I were going to explode. I can't stay mad at them though. They, along with everything else at Galvin at Windows, were served up to please us. And, like everything else, they succeeded.

We'd first heard of Galvin at Windows a few years ago, courtesy of an excellent BBC 2 series called 'Service.' Fronted by Michel Roux Jr., Service followed the journey of a number of young people looking to make their mark in the service industry. I wrote about it not long after it finished in fact. Anyway, assisting Roux in mentoring the youngsters was a French front-of-house expert called Fred Siriex who headed up - and indeed still heads up - the serving team at Galvin at Windows. So, we'd known about the restaurant for some time but had never got round to visiting. Was it worth the wait...? You could say that.

From the moment we stepped out of the lift on the 28th floor of the Hilton on Park Lane, we were treated to a memorable experience. As its name suggests, Windows offers spectacular views of London from almost every seat, and ours didn't disappoint, looking out over Park Lane and Baker Street. Right from the start, the atmosphere seemed relaxed and warm. Upon reaching our table we were presented with two postcards which we could address to anywhere in the world, and the restaurant would send them on our behalves.



Even more impressively, we were presented with a complementary glass of Champagne each, courtesy of the aforementioned Monsieur Siriex. I'd tweeted him earlier in the week to say we were visiting and ask if he'd be working that night. Though he wasn't, he still arranged for us to receive the drinks (I checked the bill afterwards and they were indeed complementary). It was an amazing touch, which I can't imagine would be replicated at many restaurants. We'd already decided to go for the Menu Degustation - the tasting menu with accompanying wines - some time before, so it wasn't long before our bread was delivered and the meal could begin.

The amuse bouche was a velvet-smooth artichoke veloute which coated a cluster of potato, truffle shavings and ham. This was served up with a small crispbread covered in chicken liver parfait and it would've made a great 'proper' course. The first course proper was even better however. Seared Scottish scallops sensationally submerged in shellfish bisque with sea vegetables. The scallops were cooked perfectly, still slightly springy with an expertly seared exterior. The greens added further crunch and the bisque was so intensely flavoured I wouldn't have been surprised if a lobster had popped out.

Next up was a ballotine of foie gras, served up with prunes, orange purée, crumbled gingerbread and a slab of sweet brioche. Again, this was a perfectly balanced dish, with the richness of the foie gras nicely offset by the sweet prunes and bread and finished with the merest of heat from the crunchy gingerbread. What a start to the meal.

The fish course consisted of a flaky hunk of halibut surrounded by a rich ragout of mushrooms. Think Birds Eye Cod in Mushroom sauce, but elevated to food heaven. The fish was coated by another deeply flavoured shellfish emulsion and the whole dish was another delight.

Onto the main course, which was, unusually, pork. To be precise, a medallion of Iberico pork, served pink with cavolo nero, cubes of pork cheek, a smooth carrot and cumin purée and a spiced sauce. This was finished off with a mini crispy spring roll, which contained another helping of the pork cheek. Salty, sweet, spongy and spicy; this main was another excellent dish, though the richness and the generosity of the portion size had me considering loosening my belt.

Thankfully both the pre-dessert and dessert itself were light and not overly sweet, perfect for settling my seriously strained stomach. The former was a sharp rhubarb compote enveloping a fluffy chocolate mousse and orange foam. This delightful goo was sprinkled with some spheres of popping candy to add flavour and texture. The latter was a floaty-light nougat parfait coated with crunchy Muscavado meringues. Persimmon purée added sharpness while a quenelle of unusual black pepper ice cream provided both coolness and heat.



We chose to finish our meal with a coffee each (served with pleasant petit fours), though we chickened out of the offer of a digestif spirit, having had wine with each course. The marshmallows I mentioned earlier - cherry and apple flavoured - were served up with the bill.

Our meal was brilliant but what really made the whole evening was the service. Warm and informal throughout and a marked contrast to the slight stuffiness of Dinner, where we'd eaten a couple of weeks previously. The pacing was great throughout, with no overly-long waits but also no sense of being rushed. The waiting staff and sommelier explained each course and wine in detail and answered any questions we threw at them. The gift of the Champagne was the icing on the most wonderful of cakes.

I have no idea what criteria the Michelin inspectors use to award their stars but I'm baffled that Galvin at Windows has only one. This was easily one of the best meals, and indeed evenings, we've ever had, and we'd definitely visit again.