Sunday, 12 March 2017

The Joy of Tex(ture)

The Marble Arch end of Oxford Street can be pandemonium at the best of times (I'm looking at you Primark). However, a few minutes walk away you can find an oasis of calm, coolness and cracking culinary concoctions. It's called Texture, and it's magnificent.

After having been guided to our seats (despite having arrived twenty minutes early), one of our many charming waiters explained to us how head chef Agnar Sverrisson would treat us to his representation of Icelandic cuisine. Never having been to Iceland I can't vouch for the authenticity of our experience. I can comment on the taste and quality though, and both were absolutely top class.

A bowl of assorted crackers and a mild blue cheese dip, and some crusty bread accompanied by intense olive oil and Icelandic lava salt set things up nicely before the meal proper began. Our appetiser was artichoke soup, and fine soup it was too, given crunch with the inclusion of hazelnuts and depth with a hint of truffle.

On paper I wasn't expecting much from the beetroot, walnuts and Gorgonzola snow which followed, but on the plate it was an absolute revelation. Three hefty chunks of earthy beetroot joined crunchy walnuts and the creamy snow to create a wonderful mix of tastes, temperatures and textures. The portion size was pretty respectable too, and I find myself considering if this was why Iceland seems to have a proliferation of strongmen, eating helpings like this. A selection of herbs rounded the dish off beautifully.

Beetroot

Anjou pigeon, pink and succulent, was next. Slivers of pickled calcot onion provided welcome sourness and textures of corn (including salty bacon popcorn and lovely sweetcorn) added smacks of salty-sweetness to another excellent dish.

Pigeon

The strong aroma of smoked eel ushered in the next course, though the fish itself was surprisingly mild in flavour. The bonito broth in which it sat was also pleasingly subtle, as was the crispy quinoa, while slices of pickled turnips gave the course a wonderful zing. As Nottingham people would say it 'made your tabs laugh.' (Look that up, readers from anywhere else in the country).

A departure from the advertised Icelandic lamb made up the meat course, though I'm not sure the lamb could've matched this absolute triumph. Deep, beefy ox cheek, rib eye so spongy and soft I could've lain upon it and got a fantastic night's sleep, crunchy chips that were more like sculpted roast potatoes, a fruity Port sauce, a smear of horseradish and an olive oil zabaglione. Imagine the very best bits of the very best roast dinner and you'd be getting close.

Blood orange granita and basil (I think) sorbet freshened things up nicely before a really interesting finish to the tasting menu. White chocolate mousse, not too sweet, joined chunks of cucumber and sprigs of dill to make up a dessert which was light enough to end the proceedings on a real high. We skipped the optional cheese and had coffee instead, which was served with some of the best petit fours we've ever had. The warm, crunchy pistachio Madeliene was particularly enjoyable.

Petit fours

Service was excellent throughout and the almost-salty Chardonnay the sommelier suggested was great, and within the price-range we'd asked for. The dining room was large and grand but the atmosphere was relaxed and easy-going, unlike other London restaurants we've visited before. There really wasn't a duff note all night.

Texture certainly lives up to its name as each course had it in abundance. But texture is nothing without taste, and this meal certainly had that too. If this is what Icelandic cuisine can offer then a visit to the land of the midnight sun may well be in order. If not, then a return to Texture will do very nicely instead.





Wednesday, 22 February 2017

Empty Beds and Empty Baskets

An ode to Arnie. To the tune of Empty Chairs and Empty Tables from Les Miserables (sung by Eddie Redmayne here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqqSa9n2ZQk)

There’s a grief that can’t be spoken
There’s a pain goes on and on
Empty beds and empty baskets
Now our cat has sadly gone

Here he dreamed of chasing birdies
Here it was he played his games
Here he meowed about tomorrow
But tomorrow never came

From his scratchpost in the corner
He could see the trees and lawn
And he rose with whiskers twitching
And I can see him now, the very mice that he had caught
He played with and he chewed them
By the lonely garden gate, at dawn

Oh my cat, my cat forgive me
That I live when you are gone
There's a grief that can't be spoken
There's a pain goes on and on

Phantom meowing at the window
Phantom jingling by the door
Empty beds and empty baskets
Where my cat will sleep no more
Oh my cat my cat, don’t ask me
What your scratching post was for
Empty beds and empty baskets
Where my cat will sleep no more

Sunday, 12 February 2017

Curtain Raised!

It's fair to say that our first visit to innovative Leeds eaterie The Man Behind the Curtain left us mightily impressed. So much so that I was a little concerned that our second sampling of chef Michael O'Hare's wonderful creations might not live up to it. I needn't have worried. Pretty much all the elements which made our first meal so memorable remained, and indeed in some cases were improved upon; and the new additions to O'Hare's tasting menu meant that this second journey into a gastronomic wonderland was even more enjoyable than the previous one.

As before we chose the wine flight to accompany the meal and, again as before, the langoustine tartare kicked things off, this time joined by tiny doughnuts of foie gras and what I think was freeze-dried raspberry. Next up, spongy Wagyu beef was served with potato starch and crispy sheets of dripping.

Hake throat and tripe might not sound appealing, but O'Hare's treatment of it made it so, smothering it as he did in Caribbean-inspired sauce and slivers of chilli which left a pleasant warmth lingering until the next course. And what a course it was. It looked like segments of red chocolate Easter Egg with a jelly and fondant eye. However, the 'chocolate' was a chilli-painted wafer-thin potato slice while the eye was bilberry jelly and a runny-fried quail's egg. All this sat atop a delightful mound of salty-sweet crab meat.

Crab

Next up was the return of an old favourite - O'Hare's signature dish 'Emancipation.' In this incarnation, the flaky cod, dashi sauce and potato shards were topped with a trio of bronze-finished prawns. Naturally. It tasted every bit as good as before though, and only the spikiness of the bowl stopped me sticking my face in and licking it clean.

'Emancipation'

The first of the meat courses saw foie gras foam-covered hunks of braised ox cheek presented with a trio of dipping sauces: beef, truffle and garlic spinach. The second was another throwback to one of our previous visit's standout dishes - Iberico pork, edible 'cinders' and runny egg yolk. Alas, the sweetbread course from last time was nowhere to be seen, but one can't have everything.

Pork

Dessert was once again the chocolate foil and mousse with puffed potato and potato custard. Indeed, this had stuck in the mind so much from before that I ended up usurping the waiter before he could announce it! Petit-fours (including the brilliantly named 'A bit like Daim Bar put probably not as good' were served up with the coffee, and we finished our night with a Japanese whisky recommended by the excellent sommelier.

The paired wines were varied and all delicious, though amazingly this time the Spanish Vermouth was actually bettered by some plum Sake. Service was prompt, friendly and efficient and the whole experience once again was pretty much faultless. I'd recommend The Man Behind the Curtain to anyone and I'd certainly visit again, as I'd just love to see what Michael O'Hare and his team can come up with next.

Sunday, 27 November 2016

(What's the Story) Dining Glory?

There seems to be something about restaurants in unconventional locations. Restaurant Sat Bains - amazing. Where is it? Under pylons by an industrial estate. The Man Behind The Curtain - groundbreaking. How do you get there? By walking through one of Leeds' higher-end clothes shops. So to Restaurant Story, which looks nothing so much like a glass-fronted log cabin sitting in a junction between two busy London roads. But the location is largely irrelevant if the food is good. And it is. Very.

Our evening starts with a welcome move to a slightly warmer table after being allocated one near to the entrance, then an explanation of the paired drinks option from the excellent sommelier. In the end we decided against this and went for a bottle of lovely South African red (again on the sommelier's recommendation) before the eating began.

The menu is presented in the form of chapters, starting with Childhood, through Sea and Land before The End. Ahead of all this though are the snacks. And what snacks! I counted six different one-or-two-bite morsels, including a fabulously-fishy crispy cod skin, a dainty slab of polenta-coated rabbit and a 'Storeo:' a squid ink biscuit with a fish mousse which looked like the popular American biscuit and even retained a bit of their sweetness too.

Rabbit

Another bonus course of a foamy veloute was served up before the first true starter of bread and dripping. Inspired by head chef (and fellow Nottinghamian!) Tom Sellers' love of dipping his bread in beef fat from his Sunday roast, this starter was chunks of sourdough bread which one dipped in the aforementioned dripping. The dripping however took the form of an edible candle, which was duly lit and sent forth it's mildly-meaty aroma. The two accompanying jars of beef extract and a chutney added an extra-beefy hit and a welcome touch of sharpness respectively.

The second starter was gin and onion and comprised crunchy onion and an onion marmalade sitting in a bowl of Bermondsey gin-infused consomme. The onions brought to mind the smell of hotdog vans (this is a good thing) while the gin packed a real punch, with the overall effect being rather wonderful.


Gin and onion

Childhood done, we were on to the Sea. The icy, champagne foam of 'razor clam' was a little bizarre, but the sliced scallop sashimi was much better. The star of this chapter however was 'foraged ramen.' A warm, tasty broth containing cep mushrooms and served with a plate full of various mini pickles.

Ramen

An optional extra course of 'risotto' was available, which we chose to share. I'm glad we did, as it was delicious, but also incredibly indulgent. Instead of rice, finally chopped celeriac formed the basis of this dish and it was covered by a velvety sauce and some shavings of white truffle. At some point (by now I was losing track) another unmentioned dish appeared, this time an orange-crusted brioche with some foie gras butter. 

The main courses of Land were up next, kicking off with 'potato and coal:' silky-smooth mashed potato topped with various crunchy vegetable discs and dressed with a charcoal oil. 'Venison' was to follow, including a strip of pink loin meat, some crunchy shoulder and a belting meatball of offal. This was all held together by a bilberry sauce. Or was it blackberry? As we'd now finished our bottle of wine and were on to another carafe, I forget some of the finer details.

Our final surprise dish (a palate-cleansing combo of milk ice-cream and lemon) preceded The End. Three very different desserts starting with rum (or brandy, things were hazy by now) ice-cream coated in candyfloss, rose ice-cream with slices of artichoke and ending with my personal favourite of a dill sorbet accompanying almond ice-cream and some crunchy candied almonds. Phew! We finished the meal off with a really good coffee and petit fours, and waddled off back toward London Bridge.

Almond and dill

What a meal it was too. By the end I think we'd got to nineteen or twenty courses of varying sizes, shapes, textures and tastes - enough to leave us feeling full but not uncomfortably so. Service was excellent throughout. None of the waits between courses were overly long, indeed some of them were welcome relief from the sheer bombardment of food. The whole experience took around three hours from start to finish, so if you visit for dinner then get there early. As mentioned before, the sommelier was excellent and both wines he suggested for us were really good whilst being toward the lower-end of the price range we asked for.

I feel like I've waffled on a bit here and to be honest I have, but it's warranted. This was a food journey of both quantity and quality and it was a thoroughly enjoyable evening. A meal that will live long in the memory.












Sunday, 2 October 2016

If you like a lot of spices in your bisque then try the Club

Well, that was an interesting evening. What was meant to be an enjoyable Indian meal still was enjoyable to be honest. The quality of the food was good enough that some rather baffling service didn't detract too much, but it was certainly pretty bizarre.

Our table at The Cinnamon Club - a high-end Indian restaurant in the heart of Westminster - was booked for 19:30 but, even though we were around 15 minutes early, we were allowed to take our seats straight away. We'd already decided to give the tasting menu a whirl so our only choice for the night was which wine to go for. Upon advice from one of the waiters we chose a nice Italian red and settled down in anticipation of a memorable meal.

The main dining room of The Cinnamon Club is a large, open affair with hundreds of books lining the walls; including several works by Dickens and other such eclectic subjects as Norsk Flora. Perusing the covers of these kept us entertained until our amuse bouche of a coriander and yoghurt covered cube of steamed rice appeared. And disappeared just as quickly, having been swiftly devoured.

Next up was a plate of three small appetisers, the highlight of which was some flaky crab on a lotus root crisp, before our first starter proper arrived in the form of a spiced seafood bisque. And it certainly was spiced, packing a real punch, but thankfully not overpowering the background taste of prawn and shrimp. The second starter was another mixed plateful, with the star this time being some okra filled with peanut and jaggery - which our waiter informed us was a type of cane sugar.


Starter Number 2

And so to our two mains, which kicked off with a pair of plump prawns partnered with a cracking mango and coriander sauce. This was probably my favourite dish of the whole meal. The second main was a Tandoori grouse breast, served up with some minced grouse leg meat and a dollop of coriander mashed potato. No complaints about this course either, though I'd like to try some unspiced grouse sometime now, as the Tandoori flavour was again pretty strong.

Grouse

Each of our savoury courses were definitely tasty, with enough spicing to make sure we knew we were eating Indian food, but never too much so as to totally overpower the core ingredients. After enjoying proceedings so far we looked forward to our dessert, and this is where things started to go awry.

We had a long wait for our dessert. Too long. Just short of asking "where's our dessert?" long in fact. When it did finally arrive it was thankfully as tasty as the rest of the meal had been; taking the form of some chocolate fudge mousse alongside very subtly spiced ice-cream and a strange, squishy, lime-flavoured blob called a rasgolla. 

The final part of our tasting menu was coffee and petit fours which we ordered and asked to have served in the quirky downstairs bar. This was when things really got messy. After taking our seats we had another overly-long wait for the coffees, though again they were good enough to be worth it. We followed these up with a cocktail each and, having been kept waiting around before, we asked for our bill at the same time.

When our waiter brought us our cocktails he informed us that it looked like we'd be getting a free meal, as our bill was meant to have been left on our table at the bar, but it hadn't been. He was worried about getting into trouble for the missing bill but as far as we were concerned it wasn't his fault. So after downing our cocktails we went back upstairs, retrieved the coat we'd stored in the cloakroom and left. Walked out. Unchallenged. Without paying a penny. Wow.

Honesty (and maybe a touch of guilt) took over however so we returned. The restaurant had my details from the booking and I didn't really want to risk getting into any trouble for not paying our bill, though after the shambles that had occurred I wasn't convinced they'd do anything about it. We explained what had happened and our bill was duly produced, though we refused to pay the service charge after they'd messed things up so much. I'll be honest - I was a little disappointed that they didn't see fit to knock a bit more off the bill as a gesture of goodwill. After all, we could easily have kept on walking and got the whole meal for free.

I'd eat at The Cinnamon Club again as the food was great, the ambience was pleasant and it was reasonable value for money. However, they really need to sort out the issues with their service. Moving us from dining area to bar should've been seamless and straightforward, but it ended up being anything but. When you eat at a place like this you expect to have nigh-on flawless service - it's one of the things you pay for. But I reckon we could've got away without paying at all and they'd have never noticed. We were honest enough to go back and pay, but I'm sure that many others wouldn't have.




Saturday, 6 August 2016

Nottingham Forest 4 - 3 Burton Albion

I have a confession to make. I didn't renew my season ticket this year (#notarealfan). There are a number of reasons for this: I won't be able to make as many matches, the off-the-field apathy and mismanagement and the on-the-field stagnation amongst them. After watching Forest breeze sweep stagger drunkenly past Burton Albion today, part of me wishes I had renewed. Another part - the one which is concerned about the well-being of my heart - is glad I didn't. I don't think it could take many matches like this one, and I have a feeling there might be a few this season.

Philippe Montanier's first competitive Nottingham Forest lineup was so youthful that it'd probably have been asked for ID when buying a pint. Academy graduates Alex Iacovitti and Matty Cash made their debuts, as did equally youthful new recruits Thomas Lam and Hildeberto Pereira. The slightly-more established Jorge Grant and Oliver Burke lined up in midfield alongside the relative veteran Ben Osborn. The more-experienced-but-still-hardly-ancient Britt Assombalonga, Henri Lansbury, Matt Mills and Dorus de Vries completed the starting XI, meaning that new signings Pajtim Kasami, Apostolos Vellios, Stephen Henderson and Damien Perquis all started their Forest careers from the bench.

If Burton Albion were meant to turn up and roll over clearly nobody told them, as they shaded the opening exchanges. A collision between Mills and de Vries gave the returning Chris O'Grady a chance which was scrambled away, before disaster struck when a challenge between de Vries and Brewers' striker Lucas Akins caused the Forest 'keeper to fall awkwardly, and, following a long period of treatment, get stretched off. Henderson would be handed his debut more quickly than anyone could've predicted or wanted.

Five minutes later however Forest shrugged off this setback and netted their first goal of Montanier's reign. A stray ball in the Burton penalty area fell to Grant, whose shot was probably heading wide before Assombalonga popped up at the far post to slide it home. The joy was short lived though as the match was turned on its head in a matter of minutes.

Firstly a Burton corner wasn't properly cleared and the ball found its way to Akins who fired home. Then a suspiciously-offside-looking counterattack ended up at the feet of Lloyd Dyer who steered a shot past the helpless Henderson. Whilst this was exciting stuff it certainly wasn't in the script. Indeed matters could've been worse if O'Grady had any pace, as another Burton break saw him set clear. Luckily he had to cut back inside and his angled shot whizzed wide of Henderson's post.

Parity was restored at the ideal time for Forest - just ahead of the half-time break - when a short corner was taken to Lam. The Finnish defender atoned for a couple of shaky moments by curling in a nice shot which beat Burton goalie Jon McLaughlin at the near post. The teams trooped off all-square while the sun-drenched crowd tried to take it all in.

Swiss international Kasami replaced the slightly anonymous Grant after the break and it wasn't too long before he made a difference. His free kick from just outside the box thudded into the wall before his rebound looped kindly to the waiting Burke. The Scotsman's shot wasn't cleanly hit but it had enough pace to bobble in at the far post with the Burton defence berating the referee's assistant for not giving him offside. Which he probably was. But so was their second goal. So, them's the breaks.

The goal seemed to settle Forest down somewhat, as did Kasami's introduction, and they exercised more control for a period. Burke and Pereira looked dangerous down the right whilst the midfield trio of Cash, Lansbury and Kasami took turns in spraying mostly-accurate long passes around the field. The defence still looked shaky however and it always felt like another goal was needed.

This duly arrived with around fifteen minutes to go when another break down the right found Pereira in space. His cross looped up off a Burton defender and over McLaughlin and may have dropped in anyway before Assombalonga made sure by nodding in at the far post. Two goals from about the same amount of yards.

Hopefully this cushion would allow the Reds to see the game out comfortably but it didn't because they're Forest and that's not how they roll. More slack defending allowed substitute Tom Naylor to plant a fine header past Henderson, who must have been wondering what was going on. A late scramble and a shot which flashed just wide of the post almost gave Burton a late equaliser but the home side just about held out to give Montanier a victory in his first meaningful match in charge.

So, how did this new-look Forest play? It certainly wasn't all roses but there are definitely reasons to be cheerful. Henderson looked a little unsure behind an almost totally new defence. The soothing presence of de Vries was certainly missed and one hopes he isn't out for too long. Watching the replay of the incident he turned his ankle nastily upon landing, but hopefully it's just a sprain rather than anything more sinister.

Iacovitti had a decent debut on the left, though he was guilty of drifting inside a few times. Still, Danny Fox does that too and he's considerably more experienced. His counterpart on the right - Pereira - looked a massive threat going forward. His pace and willingness to run with the ball could be a huge asset, though he too was caught out of position more than once. He did however produce one tremendous block. Someone needs to teach him how to take throw-ins though. Still, he and Burke could cause mayhem down the right. Hopefully his late substitution was due to tiredness rather than any injury.

Mills was his usually muscular self, but Lam - at this early stage - looks a bit lightweight for a Championship centre-half. He won some decent tackles on the floor but was often out-muscled in the air. He does however look excellent on the ball and again was more than willing to bring it out from defence. Perhaps he's more suited to a career in defensive midfield, but it's very early days.

Osborn was busy down the left without being outstanding whilst Lansbury put in a solid performance punctuated with some excellent passes. Cash, in my opinion, outshone Grant in central midfield. He pressed, harried, tackled and passed well, including one phenomenal long-range crossfield ball to Burke.

Burke himself showed just what potential he has. His pace caused problems all afternoon, even though he sometimes lacked an end product. But of course that's only to be expected. If he delivered every time he got the ball he'd have already been snapped up by someone else. His goal was well deserved and I'd have given him man-of-the-match ahead of the sponsor's choice Assombalonga.

How nice it was to have the Forest number nine starting, playing a full match and back in the goals again. Both of his strikes were easy, but they needed someone with a finisher's instinct to be there - which is something we sorely missed last season. I imagine he'll get the night off against Doncaster in midweek but he can reflect on a job well done.

Eric Lichaj replaced Pereira late on and didn't have too much to do, but Pajtim Kasami's first contribution was far more meaningful. He's an imposing figure in the middle but also very mobile. He never stopped moving and always gave an outlet, while his passing was good and one piece of skill left two opponents in his wake. Him, Lansbury and Cash/Vaughan or whoever in midfield has a nice look about it.

There's plenty for Montanier to work on, but there's also a great deal for him to work with. Tuesday night's team should be interesting and I wouldn't be surprised to see many of those who missed out today being given a chance to stake their claims. One thing seems to be sure though, if today is anything to go by: Forest will be very, very entertaining to watch this season, and that's a pretty good place to start.


Tuesday, 19 July 2016

The Nosh at Fosh is Definitely Worth the Dosh

After booking our family holiday to Mallorca, I decided to take a punt and see if there were any Michelin starred restaurants situated on the island. Of the seven that I could find the most easily accessible was Marc Fosh (formerly Simply Fosh) in Palma. Their menu also seemed very reasonably priced for set lunches so I duly booked as soon as our preferred date was available.

Located in a boutique hotel on a quiet side-street of Mallorca's bustling capital, it's unlikely you'd stumble upon Marc Fosh if you didn't know it was there. That's a real shame as you'd be missing out on an absolute treat. Having not been to a Michelin starred restaurant in such warm conditions before we were a little worried that shorts and short-sleeved shirts might not be acceptable attire. They were though, and indeed the whole atmosphere of the restaurant was pleasantly relaxed. We were pleased to be seated in a covered outdoor area, which provided shaded coolness but lots of natural light too.



From the set lunch menu available I chose the gnocchi starter while my companions both went for the chilled tomato soup with bonito - which we didn't realise was marinaded salmon until it was served. They both seemed to enjoy their starters and I certainly enjoyed mine, with the light gnocchi being matched with a rich black olive sauce and some crunchy candied walnuts.

For main I chose the herb-crusted hake, which was again excellent. Meaty, flaky hake with a crunchy herb crust and accompaniments including caviar, apple and fennel. Clare's lamb was wonderfully pink and served with the most stylish looking Greek salad I've ever seen.


My dessert of rich chocolate ganache, sour cherries, sesame puree and bitter lime gel was a lovely finish to the meal, and Clare raved about her peach sorbet and matcha green tea ice-cream.



€25 per person for this set lunch was an absolute steal, and even with a bottle of crisp Chardonnay, still water and service included, the final bill, when converted into Sterling, was just over £110 for three diners, which for food and service of such quality was an absolute steal. Palma is a fantastic city to visit on holiday, and there can't be many better places to eat there than Marc Fosh.